Tokyo - Tsukiji Fish Market...

To state the obvious, fish is a major staple to the Japanese’s diet, and most of that fish comes through Tsukiji.  The guide book tells me that several hundred of fish varieties at over 2000 metric tons of fish products go through Tsukiji a day. The “day’s work” begins at 5:00 pm with the unloading of the ships (something that will last through the night), then at 3:00 am they start setting up for the morning’s auctions.   By 5:30 am, the auctions start followed by the sales being hustled away by the middlemen to their own stalls in the market, where they will sell and distribute the fish. Apparently by 11:00 am the market begins process of cleaning to close shop to begin the cycle again in a couple of hours.

To watch the wholesale fish auction you have to be at the gate before 5:00 am and hope to be one of the first 120 people let in.  In order to do this you have to spend the night at a family restaurant, McDonalds or at a sketchy internet café as the subways don’t start till 5:00 am.   Michelle and I were originally enthused by this but some late nights caught up with us and we decided to visit early in the morning to take in the general fish market, and the open-air retail and street-food stall section on the outer edge.  Also fresh sushi for breakfast! 

By the time we reached the market at 9:00 am, the market seem to have somewhat calmed down.  People were still rushing around in these cool “trucks” with barrel shaped steering bodies but not in frenzy, i.e. we only almost got run over once or twice.  

The aisles while still packed with people and fish, people were mostly chilling.  

I was surprised at the amount of frozen fish.  I expect all fresh, but I am guessing the whole sale auction was fresh tuna.  The size of these fish were crazy...requiring a table saw to portion...

A method of de-scaling I had not seen before.  Basically shave off the skin once frozen.

Knowing the stats but seeing the massive scale of the operation is a bit mind boggling.

Just the variety of fish, shellfish, octopi, eels and more was incredible.

My first thought was sympathy for the poor fish, second thought was the yummy broth you could make!  Though maybe giant fish heads are not tasty, I don't see the Japanese wasting anything...

 

After walking around the market we went sushi hunting.  Our friend led the way to a restaurant she had heard of.  Of course we got lost!  Stopped to ask guard for directions, he said the place we were aiming for typically has a 2-3 hour line, and recommended a place locals go to.  He gave us direction, we got lost and ended up in front of him again.  This time he insisted on walking us to the restaurant and even placed an order for us.  Set menu 1 for each of us.  It was a tiny place 2 tables, the family scurrying behind a curtain.

Miso soup and the the tea was lovely.

But the sushi was out of this world.   The seafood was unbelievably fresh, tuna melted in my mouth like butter.  I will now forever be a sushi snob!

Here I finally learnt the proper way to eat sushi.  Gently lift off the fish.  Under the fish, on the rice cake will be a bit of wasabi that you spread around, dab more if needed.  Gently dip the fish in the soy sauce, replace the fish on the rice cake and voila ready to eat.  Dipping the fish and not the rice cake saves it from being dipped in too much soy sauce and risk of falling apart.  Under no circumstances do you mix the wasabi in the soy sauce to make a soup!!