Tokyo - Kappabashi dori and Sumo...

From Kobe we headed to Tokyo.  Unfortunately we didn't have time to visit Mt. Fuji as our rail pass ran out.  But really being the off season travel there would have been bit of a pain anyway.  We were told we would see Fuji on the way to Tokyo.

As the conductor was checking the tickets, Michelle asked on which side of the train the mountain will be and around when we might be able to see it.  After checking his book (I assume the schedule) he told us 12.47.  Seriously 12.47!  It's not as if we are going by a train station, it's a mountain on the way! Being a smart ass, Michelle said "12.47? Really?  Are you sure about that?"  Sarcasm didn't register, the conductor checked again and solemnly assured us "yes 12.47" A few minutes before we planted ourselves at a window and sure enough at 12.47 on the dot there was Mt. Fuji!!  Well at least the top of the mountain as it was sadly obscured by clouds.  12.47 is something I will always remember of this trip.  It combines all things we started expecting from Japanese.  Polite, serious,so helpful and above all so efficient.  Seriously how very Japanese!

Our first full day in Tokyo we planned to make our way to Kappabashi-dori - a shopping mecca for home cooks and chefs alike for all kinds of pottery, kitchen tools and gadgets.  Our first challenge was to find the street.  Despite having downloaded directions we totally got lost...mostly we didn't appreciate the difference between JR trains and city subway trains.  Once that was sorted, we were on our way...

Finally we were greeted by a large moutached chef atop a corner building welcoming us to Kappabashi street.  I wondered why he looks Italian and not Japanese!

This street is something like 150 stores filled with all thing from chopsticks to pottery to cookie cutters (expensive!!!) to specialty cookware.

The variety was mind boggling - the rainbow of colours, myriad of shapes all with a bit of Japanese flair.

I was a some what tempted by all the types of fake plastic food.  It's intended for restaurants to entice customers with visual examples.  Being language challenged, we appreciated it more as  it showed exactly what will be delivered and it's easy to point and say one please!  As intrigued as I was by the diversity (sushi, spaghetti, sundaes, beer etc.) the high prices and my recent pledge to unclutter my living space helped to keep walking.

We saw this sign for the first time here...I guess they don't want the ashes floating into the equipment.

I could have spent hours here rooting through all the stores.  But alas we had tickets for sumo so after some frenzied shopping we made our way to the Sumo arena.

So a bit of sumo history -  baisc game two wrestlers try to force the other out of the ring or make them touch the ground with anything but the soles of their feet.  The ring is made of clay mixed with sand.  I read later that being a sumo wrestler means you have to follow strict rules and live in Sumo "Stables" with other wrestlers where, food, dress, and, all aspects of daily life are dictated by strict tradition laid down by the Sumo Association.  There can only be 1 foreign-born wrestler per stable. There are 6 tournaments a year, 3 in Tokyo, 1 in Osaka, 1 in Fukuoka, and one in Nagoya.  As with all sports, recent Sumo controversy include hazing deaths, and Yakuza (Japanese mob) ties and gambling.  How very un-Japanese!

As expected it starts off with a ceremony

After walking in, paying respects, the current yokozuna (#1 ranked guy) comes in and does his thing.  Little tid bit, the okozuna can't lose his title even if he loses, he is just expected to retire if he can't compete at the same level anymore. 

Finally the wrestlers square off.  Yet this is not the start.  They stood up multiple times, walk to their corner, throw salt into the ring (to purify it every time they step in), much slapping, and chest thumping.  Basically metal prep and posturing.

Eventually they get back to position, stare each other down and charge.  It seems like more often than not one of the guys aren't quite prepared and the match if over in seconds. In a good match there is a bit of grappling and face mushing, but for our afternoon it was rare.

This was our friend's favourite wrestler.  Japanese and up until this day was undefeated and a good chance at winning the whole thing. Unfortunately his match was against the strongest wrestler in the league and he lost.

As we were heading out, we walked by a random wrestler on his way out.  He seems well known as people clamored for pictures.