Tokyo - Harajuku and Yoyogi park...

Harajuku is famous for the eclectic gathering of young, rebellious (well as rebellious and the average Japanese seem to get) and flamboyant Japanese trend-setters. It was an insane mix of fashion, style and fun. Michelle and I people watch and play the game of “what doesn't fit” – in most outfits there was always something that was just one thing too much – the colour combo, extra shirt, belt whatever.   But in Harajuku they took the typical Japanese fashion of “almost everything and anything goes” to then next level and somehow made it cooler. 

The most famous street in Harajuku is Takeshita-Dori filled with small trinket and boutique type shops.   

This street, alley really, is crammed with people on a Sunday afternoon, both local and touristy but I was happy to think mostly local.

Japanese/French-style crepes seem to be the “it” food.  The lines were long but the crepes sold in the wrapped cone like filled with ice cream, fruit and other toppings looked delicious and worth the wait.  Sadly despite my love of crepes we just could not find room in our stomachs.   For this alone I am determined to make my way back to Japan!

Yoyogi park is another gathering place for the Japanes young to shake of the uniforms and fly free.  As we entered the park a group offered free hugs. 

 Michelle, being the queen of hugs, finally found her people!

A friend mentioned the rockabilies before we left Canada but nothing gets you quite ready for them… dressed in black leather (even in the crazy heat!), jeans, hair styled like Elvis (or Travolta from Grease) they dance away.  There doesn't seem to be any real choreography, though they are in sync.  Most seem completely lost in their own world and seem unaware of the audience.  

It didn't seem to be about the performance but just a love for the music and dance.

Tokyo - Akihabara...

Akihabara is electronic heaven in Tokyo.  It was the expected bright and flashy lights at night. Though I was a bit disappointed that the prices weren't that much cheaper than home.  We weren't looking for computer, camera or other electronic swag, maybe that would have been cheaper.  I had hope to clean up on iphone bling, but sadly with the iphone 5 out bling for iphone 4 was a bit limited.

Besides the electronics, the area was jammed packed with all things anime.  Sadly my anime exposure pretty much started and ended with sailor moon.  Still it was interesting to look at.

As we were walking around looking for dinner we came across a cafe that seemed to specialize on "honey toast."  Since the night before I had a sweet crepe for dinner I couldn't justify having another huge dose of sugar for dinner.  Luckily neither Michelle or I (okay mostly me) couldn't get this out of our heads so we came back the next day to indulge.  

What is honey toast you ask?  Well it's exactly as it sounds.  A "mini" loaf of bread is hollowed, both the shell and the insides (which is cubed) are toasted, buttered, and drizzled with honey.  The insides are stuffed back into the shell then topped, in our case, with ice cream, banana, whip cream and chocolate sauce.  Let me just say yum!  I am told bubble tea places in Ottawa advertise honey toast but with a good loaf of bread and toaster I think this can be replicated.    

 Besides food and electronics my other love is stationary.  Japan has the stationary market for all things cute covered.  After a bit of searching we found a 5 storey store.  FIVE stores full of all things stationary!  Again the prices weren't as cheap as I hoped so I was able to hold myself in check.  Somewhat.

Tokyo - Tsukiji Fish Market...

To state the obvious, fish is a major staple to the Japanese’s diet, and most of that fish comes through Tsukiji.  The guide book tells me that several hundred of fish varieties at over 2000 metric tons of fish products go through Tsukiji a day. The “day’s work” begins at 5:00 pm with the unloading of the ships (something that will last through the night), then at 3:00 am they start setting up for the morning’s auctions.   By 5:30 am, the auctions start followed by the sales being hustled away by the middlemen to their own stalls in the market, where they will sell and distribute the fish. Apparently by 11:00 am the market begins process of cleaning to close shop to begin the cycle again in a couple of hours.

To watch the wholesale fish auction you have to be at the gate before 5:00 am and hope to be one of the first 120 people let in.  In order to do this you have to spend the night at a family restaurant, McDonalds or at a sketchy internet café as the subways don’t start till 5:00 am.   Michelle and I were originally enthused by this but some late nights caught up with us and we decided to visit early in the morning to take in the general fish market, and the open-air retail and street-food stall section on the outer edge.  Also fresh sushi for breakfast! 

By the time we reached the market at 9:00 am, the market seem to have somewhat calmed down.  People were still rushing around in these cool “trucks” with barrel shaped steering bodies but not in frenzy, i.e. we only almost got run over once or twice.  

The aisles while still packed with people and fish, people were mostly chilling.  

I was surprised at the amount of frozen fish.  I expect all fresh, but I am guessing the whole sale auction was fresh tuna.  The size of these fish were crazy...requiring a table saw to portion...

A method of de-scaling I had not seen before.  Basically shave off the skin once frozen.

Knowing the stats but seeing the massive scale of the operation is a bit mind boggling.

Just the variety of fish, shellfish, octopi, eels and more was incredible.

My first thought was sympathy for the poor fish, second thought was the yummy broth you could make!  Though maybe giant fish heads are not tasty, I don't see the Japanese wasting anything...

 

After walking around the market we went sushi hunting.  Our friend led the way to a restaurant she had heard of.  Of course we got lost!  Stopped to ask guard for directions, he said the place we were aiming for typically has a 2-3 hour line, and recommended a place locals go to.  He gave us direction, we got lost and ended up in front of him again.  This time he insisted on walking us to the restaurant and even placed an order for us.  Set menu 1 for each of us.  It was a tiny place 2 tables, the family scurrying behind a curtain.

Miso soup and the the tea was lovely.

But the sushi was out of this world.   The seafood was unbelievably fresh, tuna melted in my mouth like butter.  I will now forever be a sushi snob!

Here I finally learnt the proper way to eat sushi.  Gently lift off the fish.  Under the fish, on the rice cake will be a bit of wasabi that you spread around, dab more if needed.  Gently dip the fish in the soy sauce, replace the fish on the rice cake and voila ready to eat.  Dipping the fish and not the rice cake saves it from being dipped in too much soy sauce and risk of falling apart.  Under no circumstances do you mix the wasabi in the soy sauce to make a soup!!

Tokyo - Ninja Restaurant...

After Sumo we met up with some of our friend’s friends to trek to the Ninja restaurant.  Yes I typed Ninja restaurant!!  It’s apparently a chain restaurant but all review were glowing for the food and for the ninja surprises.

Though a little kitsch, the ninja atmosphere was very well done. The entrance to the restaurant was just a foreboding hole in the side of a big shopping building. 

Once we entered the restaurant, we were asked to wait at the reception area while a ninja was called for us. Suddenly, a “ninja” just appeared at one of the door high up on the wall. She gave us a speech about a ninja training that we were about to undergo then took us through another secret entry and then we found ourselves in a small box of a room, she said that we had to use ninja magic to get the door open and we had to chant “nin nin nin nin” and the door opened.  We walked past a river where the ninjas apparently train everyday, and then there was a broken path running over the river, but luckily our ninja used her magical powers to restore the bridge, but we had to be fast and as soon as we all past the bridge it was broken again.

The interior was decorated like a ninja village of the feudal days and it was designed like a maze. Individual rooms and seats were laid out in different areas and completely hidden; the ninja told us that the purpose was to hide from intruder. 

To go with the whole ninja theme, the menu was designed like a scroll. Very cute! 

They recommended the tasting menus. But as the basic menu was something like 5-6 courses Michelle and I opted to go off the menu.  We started with the fiery chicken wings and roasted cashews.  When this came to the table I assumed the red chilies were deep fried and edible.  It was not deep fried and super spicy!  Just as I was finishing my first bite the ninja waiter finished explaining to the table (in Japanese) that the chilies were not meant to be eaten. Message delayed but received. 

Our friends ordered the tasting menu and part of it was the special stone-boiled soup (Japanese bouillabaisse) made at the table.  Vegetables in the wooden bucket. She used scissors to cut them into small pieces and poured hot soup into it. Then, she put a piece of stone that was very hot into the bucket to cook the soup.

 

This is was the end product.  It tasted something like miso soup with a basil and some other veg hints.  All in all delicious!

My main was a lamb dish.  I have no idea how it was made but it was so good.  Meat was super tender.

The set menu included a sushi course.  The "typical" excellent sushi you get in Japan. 

Halfway through dinner a "master" ninja showed up with his bag of magic tricks.  Nothing too crazy but still amazing as it is performed right in front of you.

For dessert we ordered the snowy frog cheesecake - cheesecake in the shape of a frog sitting on top of a chocolate lily pad.  Seriously cute! The ninja grated freshly grated parmesan over the frog to make it look like snow. The cheese cake not what you'd get in north america but good, fluffy yet rich and creamy.

Set menu dessert was a strawberry panacotta made it to a ninja shape with a sword hanging on his back.

Even the washrooms were cute...rustic style with faux rock and a huge fresh flower arrangement.

I was hesitant about going to Ninja at first, because I thought it’d be a lame gimmicky restaurant with high priced by crappy food.  Boy was I was wrong. The food was excellent, service very Japanese (aka excellent) and they did the Ninja concept very well.   Ninja was a bit pricey, but we knew that going in so as long as you add to your budget, it’s well worth a trip.  

Tokyo - Kappabashi dori and Sumo...

From Kobe we headed to Tokyo.  Unfortunately we didn't have time to visit Mt. Fuji as our rail pass ran out.  But really being the off season travel there would have been bit of a pain anyway.  We were told we would see Fuji on the way to Tokyo.

As the conductor was checking the tickets, Michelle asked on which side of the train the mountain will be and around when we might be able to see it.  After checking his book (I assume the schedule) he told us 12.47.  Seriously 12.47!  It's not as if we are going by a train station, it's a mountain on the way! Being a smart ass, Michelle said "12.47? Really?  Are you sure about that?"  Sarcasm didn't register, the conductor checked again and solemnly assured us "yes 12.47" A few minutes before we planted ourselves at a window and sure enough at 12.47 on the dot there was Mt. Fuji!!  Well at least the top of the mountain as it was sadly obscured by clouds.  12.47 is something I will always remember of this trip.  It combines all things we started expecting from Japanese.  Polite, serious,so helpful and above all so efficient.  Seriously how very Japanese!

Our first full day in Tokyo we planned to make our way to Kappabashi-dori - a shopping mecca for home cooks and chefs alike for all kinds of pottery, kitchen tools and gadgets.  Our first challenge was to find the street.  Despite having downloaded directions we totally got lost...mostly we didn't appreciate the difference between JR trains and city subway trains.  Once that was sorted, we were on our way...

Finally we were greeted by a large moutached chef atop a corner building welcoming us to Kappabashi street.  I wondered why he looks Italian and not Japanese!

This street is something like 150 stores filled with all thing from chopsticks to pottery to cookie cutters (expensive!!!) to specialty cookware.

The variety was mind boggling - the rainbow of colours, myriad of shapes all with a bit of Japanese flair.

I was a some what tempted by all the types of fake plastic food.  It's intended for restaurants to entice customers with visual examples.  Being language challenged, we appreciated it more as  it showed exactly what will be delivered and it's easy to point and say one please!  As intrigued as I was by the diversity (sushi, spaghetti, sundaes, beer etc.) the high prices and my recent pledge to unclutter my living space helped to keep walking.

We saw this sign for the first time here...I guess they don't want the ashes floating into the equipment.

I could have spent hours here rooting through all the stores.  But alas we had tickets for sumo so after some frenzied shopping we made our way to the Sumo arena.

So a bit of sumo history -  baisc game two wrestlers try to force the other out of the ring or make them touch the ground with anything but the soles of their feet.  The ring is made of clay mixed with sand.  I read later that being a sumo wrestler means you have to follow strict rules and live in Sumo "Stables" with other wrestlers where, food, dress, and, all aspects of daily life are dictated by strict tradition laid down by the Sumo Association.  There can only be 1 foreign-born wrestler per stable. There are 6 tournaments a year, 3 in Tokyo, 1 in Osaka, 1 in Fukuoka, and one in Nagoya.  As with all sports, recent Sumo controversy include hazing deaths, and Yakuza (Japanese mob) ties and gambling.  How very un-Japanese!

As expected it starts off with a ceremony

After walking in, paying respects, the current yokozuna (#1 ranked guy) comes in and does his thing.  Little tid bit, the okozuna can't lose his title even if he loses, he is just expected to retire if he can't compete at the same level anymore. 

Finally the wrestlers square off.  Yet this is not the start.  They stood up multiple times, walk to their corner, throw salt into the ring (to purify it every time they step in), much slapping, and chest thumping.  Basically metal prep and posturing.

Eventually they get back to position, stare each other down and charge.  It seems like more often than not one of the guys aren't quite prepared and the match if over in seconds. In a good match there is a bit of grappling and face mushing, but for our afternoon it was rare.

This was our friend's favourite wrestler.  Japanese and up until this day was undefeated and a good chance at winning the whole thing. Unfortunately his match was against the strongest wrestler in the league and he lost.

As we were heading out, we walked by a random wrestler on his way out.  He seems well known as people clamored for pictures.